Ars Tinctoria is a specialised analysis and research laboratory that covers the various sectors related to the tanning industry supply chains and its manufactures. It deals with analytical research on leather and tanning chemicals, physical-mechanical tests, environmental impact assessment of chemical processes, biodegradability, reproduction and standardisation of colour and light, and even with 3D prototyping.
The laboratory was established in 2011 for the study and classification of dyes on the initiative of Gustavo Adriàn Defeo who has been dealing with analytical chemistry and colour physics applied to industry for over thirty years. The company name was inspired by “Ars Tinctoria Fundamentalis”, the first organic and methodical classification of colouring substances known at the end of the 17th century.
In these 10 years of activity, the structure of Santa Croce (Pisa) has been able to gain a prominent position in the non-conventional analysis of chemical products actively collaborating with the UNI, CEN and ISO technical committes, where it has proposed analytical methods that have been adopted as international standards.
Ars Tinctoria has been an ISO 17025 accredited laboratory since 2015, listed in the Laboratory Directory of the Tuscany Region (MapLab), ICEC certified and approved for the certification of level 1 ZDHC chemicals.
Ars Tinctoria carries out analytical and consulting activities in Italy, Germany, France, Spain, Switzerland, Holland, Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay, Turkey and China among other countries. Despite its tanning origin, in recent years Ars Tinctoria has made important research projects for the textile sector with innovative solutions for the study of the exhibition scenario of potentially allergenic dyes.
The 10 years of intense analytical research activity led to more than 30 conferences and seminars both in Italy, Argentina, Germany, Brazil, Turkey, Israel, England, Japan, Iceland and Spain, under the leitmotiv of the search for false positives and process innovation. IULTCS, the Design Museum in London, the University of Reykjavik, the General Consulate of Italy in Tokyo are among the institutions that hosted Ars Tinctoria, and among others also Cotance and the Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium.


Gustavo Defeo together with Mr. Mancuso, head of the physical testing laboratory
Laboratories of ARS Tinctoria